Namibia - Botswana - Zimbabwe - Botswana - Namibia

Namibia

Ruacana Border Crossing. No problems with either the laid back Angolan officials (who ignored the fact that we were well over the Transit Visa time limit) and the efficient and friendly Namibian officials.
Ombalantu. This fast expanding small town has all you need: banks, supermarkets, shops selling vehicle accessories and spares, in fact shops of every type. We stayed at the Outapi Town Lodge GPS S17 30.013’ E014 58.957’ on the right hand side of the main road as you enter the town from Ruacana. The brand new lodge offers B&B for a reasonable price, good rooms and service, a swimming pool and a reasonable restaurant.
Kunene River Lodge. GPS S17 21.270’ E013 52.924’. Signed, from time to time, on the piste that runs alongside the river; no real need as you can’t miss it. For us, the perfect place to wind down after the previous 8 months; location, food, bird life, etc. The facilities are spotless and outstanding; electricity hook up, hot water, showers and sinks, braai stand for each pitch, good restaurant, cold beer and excellent advice from the managers/owners about travelling in NW Namibia.
Enyandi. Deserted/unmanned campsite. GPS S17 08.922’ E013 31.702’. We didn’t use it (lunch only) but it looked a good prospect. Signed on the right 100m after crossing a stream, follow the track down to and through the palms to the Kunene river bank. Great shade under huge fig tree, but no facilities at all and calling it a campsite is over doing it, more properly it is a bush camp site.
Bush Camp. GPS S17 05.987’ E013 31.197’. Great location on sandy river bank overlooking the river, we were able to wash and swim in the river.
Epupa Falls. Overflow section of the Community Campsite. GPS S17 00.147’ E013 14.682’. Check in at the main campsite and ask to go to the overflow site if you want to avoid the tour groups. If you are a social animal this quieter option may not be for you; exactly the same facilities with ablutions (cold water only) and braai stand and riverside location. Epupa also has one of the very few cell phone masts/reception in NW Namibia.
Bush Camp. GPS S17 30.622’ E12 56.408’. En route to Van Zyl’s Pass and to the east of Okauwe. To the left of the track; a hill top location and near an old Himba livestock pen with great views of the sunset.
Van Zyl’s Camp Site. GPS S17 38.533’ E12 44.961’. We didn’t use this campsite (we didn’t know it was there!); it is to the right of the track and close to the start of the ascent, it looked well maintained and is in an ideal location for making an early morning crossing of the Pass. The Pass itself is not that testing on the ascent, the views stunning and for parts of the descent your passenger will need to get out and guide you.
Okarohombo Community Campsite. GPS S17 15.042’ E012 26.250’. Signposted as you approach the three huts that constitute Okarohombo and is an excellent campsite. The site is a fine example of the Namibian/Kakaoland community campsite. It is spotlessly clean and has recently up graded/replaced the ablutions, now with hot water. There are good riverside pitches with braai stands and spectacular mountain views.
Bush Camp. GPS S18 27.427’ E012 28.784’. In the dried river bed of the Sechomib River, off the D3707. The couple of bushy ‘trees’ there gave the only (limited) shelter from the biting wind. It is close to the Skeleton Coast so be prepared for late evening/overnight fog.
Chumib River. This dry river bed is cut by the D3707 at GPS S18 38.669’ E012 40.091’; to see a group of very relaxed, easy to spot and photo giraffes, turn west and drive along the river bed. Good picnic/bush camp areas on the ‘banks’.
Purros. Community Campsite.GPS S18 43.969’ E012 56.517’. Signposted on the outskirts of the village; it is not in the village but about a Km to the east. The site is up to the high standards of the other community campsites and good guides available to track the local desert elephant and lion. When leaving, if you are following our route, don’t miss out on the river gorge/canyon. 
Sesfontaine. Community Campsite.GPS S19 07.475’ E013 37.155’. Only signposted at the entrance to the site; it is on the right of the main road and as you approach the centre of the settlement. All the good, standard community campsite facilities. There is a small supermarket in Sesfontaine, but the cash machine will not accept non-Namibian cards. Fuel is also available.
Outjo.Etosha Garten Hotel. GPS S20 06.429’ E016 09.410’. Well signposted from the main street in the town. Good restaurant, pool and staff and located in a town that has most everything you have missed on the way south! There is a fabulous bakery, with internet, opposite which is a garage with a good reputation. Elsewhere are well stocked supermarkets, banks and a superb butchery (try the biltong!).
Etosha National Park. Okaukuejo Rest Camp. GPS S19 10.862’ E015 55.050’. All the facilities you would expect at this well run campsite: electricity hook up, braai stand, well maintained ablutions with hot water, swimming pool, restaurant and bar, shops (selling wood for the braai) and post office and ATM. The big draw is the water hole, illuminated at night and a great magnet for game.
Grootfontein. Roy’s Camp. GPS S19 13.969’ E018 29.912’. On the left of the B8 leading to Rundu and about 50 Km north of Grootfontein. Signposted immediately before the entrance on the left hand side of the road, follow the track to reception. A tranquil and shaded campsite with electricity hook up, braai stand, good ablutions with hot water; there is also a bar and restaurant. A very good site with plenty of birdlife around and Eland at the waterhole.
Okavango River. Ngepi Camp. GPS S18 06.790’ E021 40.007’. Signposted at the turn off from the D3402 in a fantastic location on the banks of the Okavago, south of Popa Falls and about 25 minutes from the Mahango National Park. Great riverside pitches with amusing and quirky but very good ablutions; also has electricity hook up, braai stand, hippos and bird life, etc. There is a swimming pool in the river, a good bar and restaurant and plenty of game/bird viewing activities on offer.

Botswana

Mohembo Border Crossing. GPS S18 15.612’ E021 45.723’. Namibia and Botswana are part of the COMESA customs union, so no need for the carnet to be stamped. The crossing was quick and the officials excellent, all reminiscent of Europe!
Tsodilo Hills. Malatso campsite. GPS S18 43.680’ E021 43.787’. The Malatso campsite is in many ways a return to bush camping. It is about 5 km from the main campsite at the Park HQ, with no facilities but a fabulous, remote location right up against the Female Hill. Normally you will be the only people there, we didn’t have to book it. The Bradt Guide route ( the central approach on a reasonable dirt road) and relevant GPS data are sound, the Park gate is unmanned, so open it yourself and head for the Park HQ; here there are staff, guides and the main campsite with reasonable ablutions.
Maun. Riley’s Hotel. GPS S19 59.342’ E023 25.578’. Easy to find as the hotel is beside a (the only) major roundabout on the A3 in central Maun. A grimly functional campsite-cum-car park without shade, but with security and good ablutions. However it is ideally located for banks, supermarkets, internet cafes etc, etc and, should you not have time to go elsewhere, it’s OK for a one night stop over. The pricey hotel restaurant is best avoided!
Kasane. Toro Safari Lodge. GPS S17 47.752’ E025 14.394’.About 5km before Kasane and signposted on the right of the main road into Kasane, just after a left turn at an Engen fuel station. Very good overall standard; tour groups leave for their next destination at early o’clock but are otherwise quiet. Ideally located for Vic Falls in Zimbabwe, the road to the border leads from the same Engen fuel station.
Zimbabwe

We went to Victoria Falls from the Toro Safari Lodge and had no problems with the border crossing on our way in or out and we obtained a visa for Zimbabwe at the border. You may be approached by a vehicle insurance rep who will ask if you have car insurance for Zimbabwe. We didn’t, bought it from the rep and were asked to show proof of insurance by the police when leaving the border post.
Victoria Falls. Spray View Hotel. GPS S17 55.887’ E025 49.714’. Signposted on the left as you begin to enter Victoria Falls proper and are descending the hill. Good hotel rooms at all too easily reduced prices, however the included breakfast is very basic so the reduction was necessary! Unsurprisingly: very few guests, but the staff were so very welcoming and helpful. As for the spray, in the distance and only when the Zambezi is in full flood!
Botswana 

Kasane. Chobe Safari Lodge. GPS S17 48.561’ E025 08.728’. It is situated on the right (and unmissable) after the left hand turn for the Chobe NP Sedudu Gate. The campsite is popular, with good facilities including electricity hook up and a good bar and restaurant in the Lodge. You may wish to stay here for the excellent afternoon/evening river trip, if not then go directly to the Sedudu Gate (see next entry).
Chobe National Park. Ihaha Public Campsite. GPS S17 50.342’ E024 52.691’. Just follow the main route through the Chobe riverfront area (or the good Bradt Guide map!), the campsite is signposted at the right hand turn to the campsite. The campsite ablutions are in need of repair, etc; if you want a warm shower in the light then go before nightfall! We booked on the day at the Sedudu Gate and had to take pot luck with those pitches not pre-booked/occupied; to ensure you get a pitch get to the gate before midday(ish).However, as this is the most fabulous river facing, open and unfenced site, each pitch is great. Try to avoid camping under the large trees, these are baboon sleeping quarters and beware the savvy vervet monkeys – they have followed the baboon example and learnt to steal food from open vehicles and unguarded tables. It is probably the only public campsite in Chobe where you and the wildlife live side by side. Go there, enjoy your own very rewarding game drives and forgive the lion, elephant, buffalo and Hyena for keeping you awake at night!
Kavimba. Kavimba Community Campsite. GPS S18 02.564’ E024 36.243’. We passed this basic looking campsite on our way to Savuti. Contrary to the doubts expressed in the Bradt Guide, it does exist and is on the right hand side of the road about 4 km before you come to Kavimba itself. The location, overlooking the edge of the Chobe floodplain, looked interesting and there were obviously elephant and antelope around. It also could be a reasonable stop over on the way to, or from, Savuti were you pressed for daylight hours.
Savuti. Savuti Campsite. GPS S18 33.903’ E023 46.303’. Not signposted, but as it is in the middle of this very small settlement it is hard to miss. Ample and necessary shade and good facilities, but no electricity hook up. Ensure you shower before it gets dark, there were no lights in the ablutions when we were there! We pre-booked this site, but there was no need to have done, provided you were there before mid-afternoon.
Kwai Community Concession. Bush Camp. GPS S19 09.109’ E023 46.303’. We arrived too late to get into Moremi Game Reserve and got turned back at the gate. We opted for bush camping rather than the rather grim looking community campsite by the gate, we were lucky not to be asked to pay for the privilege (see below).
Moremi Game Reserve. Xakanaxa Campsite. GPS S19 11.067’ E023 25.016’. Along with most everything else in the area, the campsite and its facilities were in the process of being upgraded/refurbished (and increased in price no doubt!). The location was ideal for touring the reserve, but, having seen the Third Bridge campsite, this latter site might have been a better bet both in terms of geography and game.
Kwai Community Concession. Bush Camp. GPS S19 06.531’ E023 50.055’. Beside the Kwai River and with game that ignores the Moremi Reserve. If you want to be alone with lion, hyena, hippo, elephant, etc then opt for bush camping. You may incur a 275 pula charge (see the Journal)!
Ghanzi. Kalahari Arms Hotel. GPS S21 41.566’ E021 38.933’. Leave the A3 as it bypasses Ghanzi, the hotel is in the centre and set back on the right. We found it a perfect stopover with secure parking, a pool and reasonable food.
Namibia

Trans-Kalahari Highway border crossing. Just couldn’t be easier!
Windhoek. Roof of Africa. GPS S22 23.257’ E017 05.729’. The Bradt Guide map will get you to the hotel. We stayed here because they offered an internet connection, it didn’t work! The hotel seems to operate as a backpacker hotel and we didn’t really enjoy it.
Swakopmund. A La Mer. GPS S22 40.820’ E014 31.384’. Again, the Bradt Guide map will get you there. Good basic accommodation with secure parking and a really very helpful and informative manager and Swakop is a good base from where to tour the area.
Namib-Naukluft NP (Northern Section). Ganab Campsite. GPS S23 05.779’ E015 30.750’. Basic site that is signed on the left of the gravel track as you approach the site area and set back some 100m from the track. Great location in flat Sahel type plain with mountains in the distance.
Namib-Naukluft NP (Northern Section). Homeb Campsite. GPS S23 38.300’ E015 10.947’.Homeb is signposted as you approach the river valley. A little less basic than the Ganab site, the site has good shade and is in a marvellous location surrounded by the Namib; red dunes one side of the dry river bed and sahel the other. We visited but didn’t stay here.
Bush Camp. Tsauchab River. GPS S24 31.175’ E015 48.767’. Close to the Sesreim Campsite and about 200m upriver from the point that the C27 cuts the Tsauchab River and hidden from the main road. We arrived late at the Sesreim Campsite and with no booking; there was no space, so we used this bush camp to tide us over to the next day when there would be space. We were very discrete, unsure if we were on private land or not.
Namib-Naukluft NP. Sesreim Campsite. GPS S24 29.174’ E015 47.994’. Good site, but not all pitches have shade, the pool is small but welcome. There is also a fuel station (diesel and petrol) just outside the site entrance. The site is a must if you want to get to Sossusvlei at around sunrise or before the day trippers.
Bush Camp. North of Rosh Pinah. GPS S27 39.429’ E016 47.895’. Off to the right of the D463, before the line of telegraph poles. Great isolated location in a stream bed and sheltered from the cold coastal wind.
Fish River Canyon Conservation Area. Hobas Campsite. GPS S27 37.235’ E017 42.869’. Well signed, with water and electricity hook up and good ablutions with hot water. This is a well shaded site and a good base for seeing the canyon. (The Ais-Ais Restcamp was closed and being refurbished when we were in the region.)
Noordoewer border crossing. Again, just couldn’t be easier!

Angola

Border crossing: Democratic Republic of Congo – Angola. GPS S05 .728’ E013 26.133’. Only about 15 minutes from Matadi and although long winded and included taking down all the Yellow Fever Certificate details, the quiet crossing point on the DRC side, named Ango-Ango, proved no problem. Neither did the Angolan border post at Nooui some 200m away.
Bush Camp. GPS S06 13.852’ E013 40.817’. South of Mepala and just off the poorly maintained piste from the border, on an area used by vehicles since the war and so no mines!
Bush Camp. GPS S07 07.808’ E012 59.037’. To the north of the bridge that has replaced the post war ferry and off to the left of the badly maintained gravel road, again in an area recently used by vehicles so mine free.
Bush Camp. GPS S08 27.322’ E013 23.398’. Great site on the beach near the Ponta do Dande, it was deserted and safe to swim in the bay.
Bush Camp. GPS S09 43.440’ E013 13.278’. Another great beach site, to the south of the Cabo Ledo light house; the right turn off the main coastal road on to the track is about 1 km after a right turn to the Cabo Ledo light house that now doubles up as a large and dusty working quarry. The track descends the escarpment to the wide, deserted shore front. If you wish, you can drive south on a sandy track, deep sand at times, alongside the beach for about 25km and then where the beach ends and a rocky promontory begins turn left back up the escarpment on an obvious track to rejoin the main road at GPS S09 50.818’ E013 19.221’.
Lobito. Hotel Turimar. This is an overpriced hotel with few good points, a better bet is to stay in the car park of the very expensive beach front hotel, Hotel Terminus GPS S12 20.294’ E013 33.190’. There is a good restaurant and you can use the wash room, but no shower is available. If you are using this route, it may be a better option to try to stay in Benguela, close by and not so ‘upmarket’ as Lobito.
Bush Camp. GPS S15 24.767’ E014 00.878’. South of Chibia and about 1 km after a bridge over a river; it is off to the left down a used track and well hidden from the main road in fairly dense bush.
Bush Camp. GPS S17 09.263’ E014 01.386’. On the ‘scenic route’ to the Ruacana border crossing point. Great site on the right just after crossing a small shallow river, the site is in a gravel quarry created when the track was maintained. The river is on three sides and used by wildlife, including vervet monkeys.
Border Crossing: Angola – Namibia. Ruacana border crossing point at GPS S17 23.525’ E14 13.182’. Little used but you wouldn’t think so to look at the buildings on both sides, absolutely no problems with the Angolan immigration officer despite overrunning the transit visa by 5 days – he didn’t even comment about it.

Republic of Congo & DRC

Border Crossing Gabon – Republic of Congo. The road to the border, like that from Franceville to Lekoni, is good tar, which ends at a dead end by what might be in time a new border post. Turn left 300m before to get to Kabala. Having completed customs and immigration in Lekoni, the only post at the border at Kabala is the police post and they are no problem. After the border, the road is a reasonable sandy piste through rolling savannah. Stay on this for about 30 kms and you eventually come to the police, immigration and gendarmerie posts grouped together on the Gabon side of Mbie. They were no problem, if a little long winded. The customs post is at Leketi a further 40 kms or so along the piste; here they are no problem but expect to pay 2k cfa per vehicle. They have a government letter to explain this and, though it seems to refer to Laissez Passer only, they insist on the payment – others before you with a carnet will have paid, so it is difficult to avoid payment.
Bush Camp. GPS S01 24.769’ E015 04.153’. Turn right off the sandy piste before a wood and go along a short bit of wide track , take the next right turn and head to the edge of the wood ahead.
Bush Camp. GPS S01 15.194’ E015 51.194’. In the middle of Ollombo (south of Oyo where there is a nice riverside bar by the bridge) take the right turn signposted to Abala. Continue along the piste over a bridge and into savannah; turn right along a track after a group of huts on the right. Possibly this is not an option in the rainy season.
Projet-Gorille /Bush Camp. GPS S03 06.024’ E015 31.442’. Go through the village of Mpoumako on the main road (N2), look out for a blank red painted sign at a track leading off to the right, on the southern side/Brazzaville facing side of the sign there is on it ‘Site d’Abio’ and a restriction on entry. Take this track and follow the main yellow sandy piste (there are a couple of insignificant tracks leading off as you pass through cultivated land) to open savannah, continue and follow a red sign indicating a ‘visitors’ route to a staff accommodation area and guest ‘house’. You can camp by the lake, having apologised for arriving unannounced! There is a loo but no water and no food provided.

Brazzaville. Hotel Hyppocampe. GPS S04 16.410’ E015 16.663’. Not signposted, nothing is in Brazzaville! Best to head for the centre/Congo River area and then ask for the Cathedral which is reasonably close by. We didn’t stay here, but companions camped here for free and used the good restaurant (excellent Vietnamese food) and were allowed the use of washroom etc. It is a regular overlander’s stop and the French owner is a great source of related advice and information. It has an internet connection, slow but not too expensive. (Better bet is the cyber shop in the grounds of the Maya Maya / Meridien hotel).

Border Crossing: Republic of Congo – Democratic Republic of Congo. A battle of wits and a potential nightmare! At present it is only feasible to attempt the crossing of the River Congo if you have a transit visa for Angola in your passport (from the Angolan Embassy in Brazzaville and see the journal for detail), or sufficient DRC immigration officer impressing paperwork to show that you will be leaving the country and crossing into Zambia (however improbable that is in view of the road connection) i.e. a letter of invitation from an NGO countersigned and stamped by the regional director of immigration and any other letter with a suitably heavy weight letter heading saying/implying that you are visiting and then exiting the DRC to Zambia, or a Zambian visa in your passport (this option has not been tried to date (Aug 2008) but is evidence of your next country destination).

The port in central Brazzaville is easy to find, but I found it useful to recce the route the day before and double check the earliest ferry sailing time; the port is at GPS S04 16.222’ E015 17.791’. There are money changers on the main road just before the turn off for the port, but you can also change CFA on the ferry boat – don’t worry someone will come to you on board! Go down the side road to the port entrance where you pay an entrance fee, retain the tickets that prove you have paid. You then enter the port, bear left past the ‘Duty Free’ building (!) and park opposite a long single storey building that is to your right. Here you choose the DIY option or employ a ‘helper’, we used a helper and found him good value.

If on the DIY option, then you will find immigration on the riverside of the building and both customs and police on the side of the building where you are parked; this was the order we used and seemed the most practical. Once these have been cleared then drive/continue to the far end of the roadway where there is an open area on your left where you should park as close to the front right (as you look towards the river) of this area as possible; not that easy in the chaos that surrounds you. Your next task is to buy the ferry tickets – AFTER an official of the ferry company has visited you (you may have to seek him out) to take down the driver, passenger and vehicle details and given you the small piece of paper this detail is written on. With this paper as proof of your the validity of your request, go to the ticket office(in the building opposite and to the centre-left) to buy the tickets and confirm the loading time.

You then wait to be called forward, in the African sense of the word, so be on your guard! In our case, one of the officials loading the boat sought us out and would have called us forward had we not jumped the gun – much to his annoyance! Total time taken from arrival at the port to getting the tickets in our hands: 1hr 40 mins; cost of entrance fee 11,000 cfa and the ferry tickets (1x TLC and passenger, driver is free) 31,500 cfa. Be very wary of any overt photography, it will lead to serious trouble.

On arrival at ‘The Beach’ a DRC official in plain clothes will come on board and take your passports and carnet for processing, it is very unnerving to hand theses over! Once on shore and in the car park, you should go to the immigration office to argue your case/provide more impressive paperwork and speed the process. Before clearing the car park you may be told by an officious and overzealous health official to undergo a decontamination process at your expense; we were and it cost $60. We asked for documentary evidence of this requirement and the charge, this was produced and it looked a genuine copy of a government document. We may have brought this about because the vehicle was very dirty!

We stayed with friends in Kinshasa and ate at a fabulous restaurant, Le Chateau Margot; very good value, fantastic ambience and by eating on the large patio under the trees it is cheaper than indoors but the same menu!
Chutes de Zongo Campsite. After about 2 – 3 hours on the main Kinshasa-Matadi road, the turn off to the falls is at GPS S04 54.057’ E015 10.016’. It takes up to 2hrs along a sandy piste in bad condition to reach the falls and the riverside campsite at GPS S04 46.663’ E014 54.471’. The popular campsite is virtually on the lip of the falls, it has a shower and toilets and a basic but reasonable restaurant.
Matadi. Sisters of Charity Mission. GPS S05 36.316’ E014 19.358’. Not sign posted, once in the centre of Matadi, ask if unsure. There is a bath/shower room with toilet, but no refectory for the use of those camping in the inner quadrangle.

Cameroon & Gabon

Cameroun & Gabon

Cameroun route notes. We deliberately avoided the Calabar/Mamfe route into Cameroun as we were concerned about the road conditions in the rainy season. A concern justified by a Dutch overlander who took over three days to cover 60 kms on that route. With the Cameroun consulate in Abuja it is possible to enter Cameroun further north, we considered crossing to the north of the Mandara mountains and wish we had done so for the interest and scenery. Throughout the route to Yaoundé the roads were dry and passable and we would thoroughly recommend this option during the rainy season. The road conditions for the route we followed, including detours, were as follows:
Gurin to Tchamba (bridge): good piste. Tchamba (bridge) to Finyole: very good part new piste/dirt road. Finyole to Ngong: piste, at times testing. Ngong to Ngaoundere:good tar for all but one small section towards the end. Ngaoundere to Addi (now called Tello) and on to the N1: good piste. N1 to Meiganga: good dirt road. Meiganga to Garoua Boulai: For the most part awful potholed road, slow going. Garoua to Bertoua:Good tar. Bertoua to Doume: Piste, but at Doume work going on to create a dirt road to Bertoua. Doume to Ayos: Good dirt/gravel road and sections of tar. Ayos to Yaoundé:Good tar.
Border Crossing Cameroun – Gabon. No problems with the officials on the Cameroun side at Aban Minkoo but the Gabon immigration official at the other end of the bridge on the Eboro side may be running a scam. Unlike others ahead of us on the same day we were charged 10k cfa per passport by him for the passports to be taken to Bitam to be stamped; the others were told to take theirs to Bitam to be stamped – at no cost. So insist on taking your passport to Bitam, en route you will pass the customs post on the left of the main road to Bitam in Eboro, no problems here.
Bitam. Hotel Escale.GPS N02 04.817’ E011 29.482’. Not signposted, follow the main road into Bitam from Eboro, at the Gendarmerie building turn left, the hotel is 800m down on the right. Over priced hotel that no longer seems to run a restaurant or offer breakfast but the room was fine. Camping possible subject to negotiation.
Bush Camp. GPS N00 58.077’ E011 04.380’. In a sand quarry off the N5, a great piste running from off the N2 south of Oyem east to Kougouleu.
Bush Camp. GPS N00 42.039’ E010 23.284’. Turn left off the N5 after Assok, on a logging track and in the midst of the rainforest.
Libreville. Hotel Eclipse. GPS N00 24.795’ E009 25.996’. Not signposted but easy to find using the Bradt guidebook map! A real gem with secure parking, although cold beer in the bar it has no restaurant itself, but is located in a great restaurant area. We shared the apartment so were able to self cater – bakery, fruit and veg stalls and supermarket close by. The owners will accept camping provided someone has taken a room. The apartment is a wifi hotspot, so free and very fast access 24/7!
Lamberene. Albert Schweitzer Hospital. GPS S00 40.740’ E010 13.824’. Only signposted at the left turn to the hospital off the N1 as you enter the town; follow the road and after about 1km it ends at the hospital. Camping is fine, good looking accommodation is also available. Either can be booked through the Hospital Administrator/Director on arrival. If camping, a wash room is available but no electricity hook up, there is also a staff restaurant that visitors can use.
Sindara. Abandoned Mission. GPS S01 02.450’ E010 40.401’. At the only and major T junction on the N1 about 20 kms after Baraka turn left, Sindara is at the end of the track.Obviously not signposted, the mission is at the reached via a track at the far end of the village and it may be necessary to ask here for directions. This picturesque site is maintained by a German NGO, it made a perfect lunch stop and could also be a great place to camp, hence its inclusion.
Bush Camp. GPS S01 41.569’ E010 45.572’. Turn right off the N1 down a track through the savannah to where the track goes into forest.
Bush Camp. GPS S02 20.953’ E011 05.316’. Beside the R21 to Tchibanga, hidden from view in a gravel quarry.
Bush Camp. GPS S03 13.635’ E010 37.529’. Beside the radio mast on the left off the piste to Panga, reached by turning right off the N6 in Loubomo.
Bush Camp. GPS S03 32.748’ E010 47.565’. On the edge of the Mayumba National Park and in one of the large savannah areas, reached via the sandy piste that starts at the southern end of the runway at Mayumba airport.
Bush Camp. Pointe Panga. GPS S03 14.455’ E010 32.599’. A small clearing in the wood on the edge of a low cliff overlooking the sea; reached from the village of Panga. See the sunset and listen to the sound of the waves, good location.
Sette Cama. Bush camp/accommodation. GPS S02 31.090’ E009 44.749. Continue on the sandy piste through the village, it ends at the registration centre for the Petit-Loango National Park. Hutted accommodation with basic but adequate facilities and the possibility of electricity hook up – providing there is electricity! Meals can be provided by ladies from the village, on request. To beach camp, turn left here to an observation tower and then turn right onto a piste along the edge of the beach.
Bush Camp. GPS S02 35.836’ E011 17.936’. Turn right off the N6 at Nyali, go through the village and the track leading to a large gravel quarry is 2km further on, on the right.
Bush Camp. GPS S01 44.848’ E011 50.007’. On one of the few open flattish spaces available in this area of rainforest and on the left hand side of the piste (R 20). It is in full view of the piste, but there is little if any traffic of any kind.

Koulamoutou. Catholic Mission. GPS S01 07.864’ E012 27.403’. Not signposted, just before the town on the main dirt road from Mimongo (N6), turn left as it reaches a T junction with the tarred road ; the airport is signed to the right at this junction. Enter the town and ask! Adequate facilities but no food available, the staff will direct you to a good restaurant next to the river. Camping possible.
Franceville. Hotel Crystal. GPS S01 37.213’ E013 36.154’. Not signposted and even with the Bradt guidebook map, difficult to find as it is set back from the road. Best to look for the Crystal Night Club and ask. Good value, but no restaurant; there is a Lebanese owned cafe/patisserie close by for breakfast croissant and coffee (take your own jam, etc!) and some good restaurants in the town. An internet cafe is nearby on the edge of the Marche.
Customs post / immigration post. The only customs post is well before the border and about 4 kms on the Franceville side of Lekoni on the main road at GPS S01 34.705’ E014 12.310’. The only immigration post is on the outskirts of Lekoni and again on the Franceville side. It is difficult to miss as there is a barrier across the road here!
Cirque/canyon de Lekoni. Bush camp. GPS S01 38.529’ E014 17.381’. The route to the lip of this spectacular cirque is not signposted in Lekoni. However you do not need a guide and all you need to do is to remain on, and leave Lekoni by, the border road and about 3 kms east of Lekoni turn right off the main road at GPS S01 36.658’ E014 16.997’ onto the wide sand verge. You then follow alongside the tarred road on the sandy track beside it, which after about 500m itself turns right into the scrubby bush. Stay on this track through the scrubby bush and follow it for about 2kms to the cirque. The bush camp site is to your right as you are looking down into the cirque. A very spectacular last night in Gabon and easy to find.

Nigeria

Nigeria 
Border Crossing. Benin – Nigeria. *** ***. Very straight forward. The Benin customs post is in Nikki, on the left hand side of the road as you leave the town for the border; the Benin immigration/police post is at Chikandou on the border and the official OK, bearing in mind the visa problem (see journal). Nigerian health, immigration and customs are 200m away in Chikanda and slow, but otherwise very friendly and no problem.
Chikanda to Kiama. On our map the road to Kiama was shown as an ‘Express Highway’, up to Kosubosu it was a wide graded dirt track; there after all the way to Kiama it is anything but an express highway, we averaged about 10 miles an hour and the journey took virtually a full day. But it was good fun. Bush

Camp.GPS N09 31.900’ E00.3 17.756’, off the road to the left, the track leads to an open granite pan. After this there are further customs, health and police checks in the village atGPS N09 29.038’ E003 3O.740’ .

Kainji National Park. The Park gates are at GPS N09 59.405’ E004 16.677’ and the Lodge some 40 Km away in the Park at GPS N09 54.752’ E003 57.324’. The Lodge has some serviceable accommodation, an adequate restaurant and very helpful and friendly staff. Camping and use of all the facilities is possible, so too electricity hook up.
Agwarra. Bush Camp. GPS N10 41.557’ E004 32.825’. On the right in an open ‘field’ and just after the police post as you leave Agwarra.
Patikou. Camping in the village. GPS N09 47.689’ E004 43.256’. Beyond the Kainji Reservoir dam and to the east of the main Wawa – Mokwa road. Very friendly village; the villagers were very happy for us to use the school football ‘pitch’.
Abuja. The Sheraton Hotel car park. GPS N09 03.884’ E007 29.023’. It is easy to find, the building and logo visible from most anywhere in Abuja. The camping is free, but you have to check in with the head of car parking and/or security. Facilities (toilet and basin) are available, but limited. Sadly there is no wifi, but there is a business centre with a good internet connection and reasonable hourly fee. Restaurants are good but pricey, the beer cold and pricey!
Abuja. The Cameroun High Commission. The High Commission is best reached by taxi and is in Lobito Crescent in the Wuse district, close to the Russian Embassy.
Abuja. The Chelsea Hotel. GPS N09 03.106’ E007 28.804’. The hotel has an internet connection in the room, but in every other respect it is overpriced! Camping not an option.
Jos.The County Home Hotel. GPS N09 54.443’ E008 52.482’. Not signposted until you are within 400m or so, but quite easy to find. The hotel has an internet cafe, free for residents, and is reasonably priced but some of the food is of indifferent quality. Camping not an option.
Yankari National Park Lodge. GPS N09 45.579’ E010 30.500’. The recently tarred road leads right from the main Bauchi – Gombe road to the entrance to the Park and then onto the Lodge. Although the whole Lodge complex has been completely renovated at great expense, camping is permitted and there are plans for a dedicated camping area with proper facilities, there are none at present apart from a water tap!
Kaltungo.Bush Camp. GPS N09 46.310’ E011 23.715’. Heading south from Kaltungo the track is on the right and leads to a decent flat and open area used by the pylon erectors some years ago. Great views.
Yola. Customs Regional Office. GPS N09 16.006’ E012 25.001’. We were not certain that there would be a customs post at the border crossing we were going to use, so stopped at the Regional Office. No problems at all, the GPS is approximate as we had no wish to be arrested for logging ‘sensitive’ details!

Fofore. Bush Camp. GPS N09 09.561’ E012 44.817’. Beyond Fofore and within about 15 Km of the border; track on the left of the road to Gurin leads through scrubby wood to open clearing.
Gurin. Nigerian border post. Once in Gurin ask for the road (track) to the border, there are both immigration and custom officials here. This is only a practical crossing option in the dry season or when the water is low; there is no bridge over the river and surrounding it is a flood plain.
Near Tchamba. Cameroun border officials. GPS N08 31.770’ E012 45.510’. The GPS is of the closest customs post to our crossing point and is on the far side of THE bridge over the River Faro. On crossing the border we used a local motorcyclist to get us through the maze of flood plain tracks as far Beka and then followed the road to Tchamba; the bridge is about 10 Kms south of Tchamba and you should turn right at the T junction just before the bridge, at this junction a left turn brings you to the bridge but a right turn leads to the immigration post after about 4kms. You should visit the immigration post first.
Bush Camp. GPS N08 31.017’ E012 46.512’. About 2kms beyond customs post, turn left off the dirt road from the customs post, flat gravel quarry.
Lagdo. Lagon Bleu Resort. GPS N09 02.774’ E013 41.141’. Drive through to southern edge of Ngong, then take the last left turn before leaving the town and follow tarred road to the lakeshore village of Lagdo, the route to the resort is then signposted. Under new management (was German, now African) and deteriorating fast. Over priced and lack of investment in maintenance, fantastic location and worth staying for the views over the lake but only at half the price or less.
Ngaoundere. Hotel Transcam. GPS N07 19.309’ E013 35.800’. Take the well signposted right turn off the N1 in the northern outskirts of Ngaoundere and then follow the large signs for about 5 kms. Good hotel with internet in the bedroom and expensive restaurant, camping not possible.
Chutes du Tello. Bush Camp. GPS N07 13.840’ E013 56.508’. If approaching the falls from Ngaoundere, use a local moto taxi to put you on the D21 leaving the town. Stay on the dirt road for over 35 kms, the falls are signposted (hand painted and small) at the right turn off the D21, follow the piste to an excellent flat grassy area just beyond what passes for a makeshift car park.
Garoua Boulai. GPS details ‘misplaced’. The hotel is signed at a right turn off the main road (N1) in the middle of the town and just before the only roundabout in Garoua Boulai, where the CAR border is signposted, go up the sandy track and the hotel is about 800m on the right. The hotel is reasonably priced, the restaurant adequate and the beer cool. The management will allow camping in the secure car park with use of a wash room, etc.
Bertoua. Hotel Mansa. GPS N04 35.300’ E013 40.963’. The hotel is signposted, but intermittently, from the outskirts of the town. Probably overpriced, but only just, a reasonable hotel without internet and the restaurant is adequate and the beer cool.
Yaoundé. Catholic Mission (CASBA). GPS N03 52.611’ E011 31.445’. Not signposted within Yaoundé, but the Rough Guide map was sufficient to get us there! Great all round value and a piece of tranquillity in a noisy city. Well placed for the Congo and Gabon embassies. Camping allowed with use of washroom, etc.

Benin

Benin 
Border Crossing Togo – Benin. No GPS, you can’t miss it, warned in advance by the queues of lorries on the roadside! Chaotic and time consuming, but throughout the officials were very straight, no problems.

Grand Popo. Auberge de Grand Popo. GPS N06 16.772’ E001 49.794’. At the Y junction in the centre of Grand Popo, turn right onto the beach road; follow this beyond the end of the paved section, the auberge buildings are on the right and past an open grassy area on the right, the camp site, with reception at the far end. Camping (close to the sea) is possible and really pleasant, with the use of a shower and toilet in the accommodation nearby. Electricity hook up not possible. Good restaurant and cold beer, but the ‘pression’ is rather watery!
Abomey. Chez Monique. GPS N07 11.814’ E001 58.842’. Not signed at all and not easy to find, but the route is navigable using the Bradt guide or, in extremis, a local on a motorbike! Camping is possible in the large court yard area with the use of, about adequate, facilities. Hook up difficult but not impossible. Good Benin food and only cool beer.
Djougou. Motel du Lac. GPS N09 40.813’ E001 39.164’. It is not signposted, but is unmissable and on the right hand side of the main road from Bassila, opposite a small lake and just before you enter Djougou. Camping is not possible, but the motel is reasonable value and has a good restaurant and cold beer. The main plus was the excellent guide, Zouma Rou Alassane, provided through the motel owner.
Parakou. Hotel Majestic. GPS N09 31.900’ E002 36.870’. Not signposted, but aided by the Bradt guidebook it is relatively easy to find. Hotel service/facilities, including wifi, are reasonable but verge on the overpriced. Camping (rooftent/campervan only) possible but generally better and more flexible at next door Auberge Parakou.

Togo

Togo

Border Crossing Ghana-Togo. Menuso. GPS N07 34.836’ E000 30.862’. This crossing point will bring you directly to Badou in Togo and is reached via the Yendi road when heading north from Jasikan. The turning off the Yendi road is not signposted, but is opposite a police post/customs check point on the left hand side of the road. The minor road leads directly to the border crossings of Menuso (Ghana) with both customs and immigration and Badou-Djindji (Togo) with only immigration; the Togo customs post is in Badou itself, 250m on the left hand side beyond a small bridge and on the main road to Atakpame. All the officials were very correct and pleasant.
Akloa. Auberge de Akloa. GPS N07 30.835’ E000 36.511’. The auberge is not signposted, if in doubt ask at the village office where you pay to visit the falls and pick up a guide; you may well walk past it on your way to the falls!. The auberge is managed by a villager who will arrange for a good Togolese meal to be brought over; it is recently built and consists of rooms and an en suite ‘apartment’. The apartment is as cheap as chips, so camping is not necessary, and very adequate, although without running water when we were there (large buckets and scoops sufficed). Should the electricity be running then hook up is possible.
Lome.Chez Alice. GPS co-ordinates ‘misplaced’, but for Lome use the Mercure co-ordinates below. To the east of central Lome, follow the main beach/coast road past the port and oil depots. Not signposted until you are at the entrance, which is on the right hand side of the main road. Chez Alice is great value for money with excellent basic accommodation, good food with a Swiss German touch and cold beer. Cheap as chips so there is little reason to camp, the better huts are those not on the beach side. Electricity hook up is possible. In Lome and on your way to Chez Alice on the beach road you will pass the Mercure hotel (GPS N06 08.252’ E001 15.957’), wifi is available here at a reasonable hourly rate.

Ghana

Ghana
18th April to ??

Border Crossing Burkina Faso – Ghana. Approaching the Hamale border crossing from the west on the R20, shown as R20 on the map, but N20 on the ground and a very good tarred road from Diebougou, you will come to the small town of Ouessa, the Customs post is on the eastern side of town and at the junction with the dirt road to Hamale. The gendarme post is in Hamale. Absolutely no problems at either post. Cross over the border to the Ghana side and, again, absolutely no problems with either the police/immigration post (on the left and visit them first), or the Customs post on the right. The only problem is to remember to speak English! If you do not have any Ghanaian cedis then get some in Hamale, either from the bank close to the Customs post or from the money changer who will be in the area. We didn’t and couldn’t change any money into cedis until we got to Wa, and even then the banks were no use and we had to go to a grocery store!

Border Crossing - see ' Burkina Faso into Ghana'

Bush Camp. GPS N10 27.193’ W002 40.265’. South of Jiwara . See the journal, in Ghana there will be someone who owns the land and from whom permission should be sought! The road from Hamale to Jirapa was dirt road, often badly corrugated; after Jiwara and on to Wa it was tarred. Wa is the regional capital and a good place to restock and refuel.
Mole National Park. Mole Motel. GPS N09 15.645’ W001 51.337. Well signposted in the centre of Sawla, but the dirt track thereafter is in bad condition, so allow ample time for this section. Good signing once you are under 10 kms from the park. They will allow camping, but the facilities are not great and electricity hook up may be a problem .. so too could be the primate population, in particular the baboons! The rooms are good for the price and electricity hook up no problem. Use your vehicle to go on the game drives, in which case and providing the ranger is happy, they can start as early as you want and be for as long as you want.
Tamale. Mariam Hotel. GPS N09 25.561’ W000 50.904’. Relax Lodge. GPS N09 24’ W000 49.790’. We spent one night in each. Neither is signposted until you are within 500m or so, so use the Bradt guide if necessary. We used the functional Miriam for its wifi: free and in the hotel room. There is no possibility of camping in the secure car park. The Relax Lodge was overpriced, but did allow electricity hook up, without a fee. Again camping in the secure car park, a building site, was not a possibility. The route to Tamale from Mole is a badly corrugated dirt road until it joins the main Kumasi/Tamale road at Fulfusu, thereafter it is tarred.
Bush Camp. GPS N07 26.232 W001 28.348. Our route to Nkoranza took us along the badly maintained main road to the ferry at Malanga, get there at least 45 minutes before it is due to sail to ensure you get on. Once across, the road is tarred to Ejura where we turned off right at the southern end of town onto a brand new, traffic free tarred road and signed for Nkoranza. We sought permission to park/camp once we had found a suitable site to the rear of a village about 30 kms along the road and then proceeded to provide the evening’s entertainment! We felt secure knowing that we had engaged with the villagers and that they were very welcoming and all knew our location.
Nkoranza. Operation Hand in Hand Guest House. GPS N07 34.290’ W001 42.005’.Not signposted, go through the centre of the town until you come to a large roundabout with an advertisement and direction arrow for the Monkey Sanctuary, take the first right and carry on to the (St Theresa) hospital gates, go through the gates and after about 300m and with 2 trees with benches under them on your right, turn right; the track dissects the trees. Follow the track to a T junction, turn left and Hand in Hand is 200m on the right. Camping may be permitted, but check first; in any case the rooms are good value and electricity hook up is available if needed. We used the place as a base for touring in the area so the batteries were recharged that way. Good restaurant with cold beer.
Kumasi. Four Villages Inn. GPS N06 38.702’ W001 37.163’. Spoil yourself! Driving in Kumasi can be testing, use the Bradt guidebook map and once at the Ahodwo Circle with its statue of a horse, take the Old Bekwai Rd and carry on until you see the Inn, set back and on the right with the name emblazoned over the veranda. Recommended by friends in Ghana and with a glowing Bradt write up, the Inn lived up to all the hype! Welcoming and helpful host (Chris), lovely rooms, great breakfast. No camping, but electricity hook up is possible, internet access but it is paid for, and then there is Comfort – a superb local guide.
Lake Bosumtwi. Lake Paradise Resort. GPS N06 31.927’ W001 25.848’. Signed before you get to the village of Abonu and again at the track that leads off right from the tarred road just before you enter the village. Turn right at the sign and the Resort is on your left after about 800m down this rough track. Camping is not possible and the Resort has reached the stage where it needs capital investment to refurbish the careworn infrastructure. As such the rooms are overpriced, despite the superb location.
Axim. LouMoon Lodge. GPS N04 49.745’ W002 12.094’. Signed from the Axim turn off the main Elubo road and again at the left turn down a track on the town outskirts proper. Just follow the track to its end, about 7kms or so, and the entrance is in front of you. Camping is possible, but there is a small fee, electricity hook up is feasible, but not tested and the facilities – toilet and shower – good. . In our opinion this Lodge is absolutely the best there is in Ghana, the veritable bees knees and worth every penny .. and if you stay in one of the chalets on the island, it’s quite a few pennies! But, what the heck! Spoil yourself, live a little! Paul Ramlot is extremely helpful and understanding, the staff superbly attentive, the French inspired food, especially the sorbets, outstanding and the facilities on the beach around the idyllic, secluded and safe to swim bay, great.
Beyin. The Beyin Beach Resort. GPS N04 59.312’ W002 35.744’. If approaching along the coastal dirt road from Elkwe, the Resort is on the left at the western end of the village of Beyin and accessed through the same entrance as the Nzulezo stilt village visitors centre. Camping is possible at no extra charge, providing you use the restaurant and the food is good value and well prepared and the beer cold. Electricity hook up is feasible but not tested and the facilities, shower and toilet are very good. The English owners, Patrick and Nina, are very overlander friendly and the Resort very good value for money.
Dixcove. Safari Beach Lodge. GPS N04 45.504’ W002 00.827’. We found the Bradt guidebook map of Dixcove imperfect, when in Dixcove ask directions and you will then be put on the dirt track leading to the Lodge. The Lodge is about 5 minutes from Dixcove and signed at its left hand turn off the dirt track. Camping is possible in the car park providing you use the restaurant, with shower and toilets nearby, but no electricity hook up is feasible.
Ampenyi. Ko-Sa Cultural Centre. GPS N05 03.689’ W001 26.425’. If travelling east on the main Cape Coast road, the Centre is signposted (but a smallish sign) at the right hand turn in Ajensudo, follow the tar road to the village and the Centre is signposted there. The new Dutch owners have overlanded in East Africa, camping is possible and so too is electricity hookup. We felt that Patrick and Nicole were making a great start, with a good ambience to the place and value for money food.

Kakum National Park. Rainforest Lodge. GPS N05 20.827’ W000 10.437’. As this Lodge is just 100m in front of the Park visitors centre/ HQ/ Canopy Walk, just follow the signs for the Park on the Jukwa road. No camping is allowed, the Lodge is basic, but the room has a fan and comes with en suite shower and toilet; self catering is the best way to ensure a meal in the evening .. assuming you will be there for the early ( 05.30!) start the next morning. Great location and great value!!
Accra. As we stayed with family friends in Accra, there is no information regarding accommodation, etc. However the following may be of use regarding VISAS: The Nigerian High Commission has a tendency to move annually! Currently it is in the northern end of Onyasia Crescent in a district called Roman Ridge. The paperwork for the Nigerian visa includes – in addition to the standard photos and passport copies – photocopies of both the front page of the carnet and the page with the Ghana entry stamp on it; a photocopy of the page in the passport with the Ghana visa on it; photocopies of most, if not all, the vaccination documents; a photocopy of the UK vehicle registration document and a copy of your driving license! The visa costs $100 and takes not less than 48hrs. The Benin Embassy is now located, when approaching from Switchback Lane, at the far end of Switchback Close in the north of the Cantonments district. The visa application is simple and the visa ready the same day, if you go early, and the cost varies according to the number of days the visa is for; the visa is paid for in CFA’s. There is also a post office close by, at the junction of Jawarial Nehru and 2nd Circular roads. Should you be crossing into Togo by any route other than the Denu/Lome crossing, where visas are available, you should get a visa from the Togo Embassy. The Embassy is located beside the roundabout at the top end of Cantonments Road. As with the Benin Embassy, the Togo visa application is simple; the visa ready the same day and paid for in CFA’s. The following may be useful regarding a TOYOTA SERVICE: We used the Toyota Ghana Accra branch for a thorough and cheap (by UK prices) service of the vehicle, they are highly recommended by ex-pats and their details are: Location: junction Graphic Road and Adjuma Link in the South Industrial Area district. Tel: 221316/228813/223122 and their service centre 2283662 or 241239.

And finally, the following may be of use regarding WIFI: free wifi is available in the excellent cafeteria above the Koala supermarket. The supermarket is 20m south of the roundabout where Cantonments Road and the Ring Road intersect; run by a Lebanese family, it has a good supply of European foodstuffs ,a large car park and the internet connection is far more reliable than that of some expensive hotels.
Biakpa. Mountain Paradise Lodge. GPS N06 51.045’ E000 25.209’. Well signposted from the nearby village of Vane, the Lodge is a long 1km north of the village of Biakpa. The dirt tracks leading to the Lodge are hilly and great fun, the scenery on the way from Anfoeta is stunning. We stayed in a (cheap) twin room, where, because of the altitude, it was cool so the fan was not needed and there were no mosquitoes. Food is available and camping is possible, but not sure about what facilities are available. The views and the activities in the area make it worth the trip.